Athens Off-Script: A disruptive guide to food, wine and wonder By David Tsirekas

Heading to Athens Soon? Here’s Why You Should Stay a While There’s something special about landing in Athens just before lunch. The city feels still, suspended in a kind of smoky, jasmine-scented calm that quietly welcomes you in. For many Australians preparing to make their annual pilgrimage to Greece—particularly those from Melbourne and Sydney—Athens is often just a gateway to the islands. But what if you lingered a little longer? What if you gave the capital more than a night or two?  

In this personal guide, David shares a recent journey through Athens—one that bypasses the usual postcard clichés in favour of discovering the city’s heartbeat through tavernas, wine bars, open kitchens and back-alley gems. If you’re planning a trip to Greece this year, this is your nudge to explore Athens like a local, eat like a poet, and taste the Greece that’s evolving beautifully right before our eyes.

Semeli Tsipouradiko – Serron 67, Koridallos 18120 – @semelitsipouradiko
A spontaneous start in Nikaia, Semeli brought us straight into the world of old-school taverna life. The courtyard, shaded and still, hummed with calm. Sardines grilled simply, chunky hand-cut fries cooked in olive oil, and tsipouro that needed no explaining. You don’t go here for plating or posture; you go to reconnect with the Athens many overlook. Rumour has it, the same family has run the place for generations, holding strong to their weekday regulars and weekend wanderers alike.

Souvlaki H Volvi – Evripidou 24, Athens 10551 – @souvlakivolvi
Nestled among the hanging lamb heads, glistening livers, and fragrant chaos of the Central Market, Volvi is the souvlaki spot you hit after a wander through Athens’ gutsiest shopping precinct. The sign says it all: no fries, no tzatziki, no ketchup here. Just mustard, tomato, parsley, and bukovo wrapped in a proper warm pita, with grilled skewers that taste like they were made to cut through the cold morning air. It’s honest, sharp, and totally unfussed, exactly what you want after haggling for herbs and tripe.

Manari Taverna – Plateia Agion Theodoron 3, Athens 10561 – @manaritaverna

Chef Aris Vezene’s ode to the village taverna, right in the city’s heart. Fire pit aromas, rustic chairs, stone walls and rooms that feel like they’ve always been there. The salad, crisp and unassuming, was talked about for days. It had texture and bitterness, dressed in restraint, and served with quiet confidence. Vezene is known for operating across genres, from Japanese to Greek, but Manari is his most personal expression yet.

The Clumsies – Praxitelous 30, Athens 10561 – @the_clumsies
Globally awarded but still intimate. A cocktail bar where each room shifts in mood and tone. Whether you're in the garden, by the hearth, or seated at the main bar, the drinks are thoughtful, the staff intuitive, and the vibe unmistakably Athenian in energy. Their take on the Greek Spritz is worth noting, vermouth made in-house, with grapefruit oil and gentian.

Geko – Mitropoleos 54, Athens 10563 – @gekoathens
Chic and unashamedly theatrical, Geko is Athens’ answer to high-end Mediterranean dining with atmosphere dialled up. Hot pita arrives like a gift, and the wine list leans clean and Greek-forward. Their signature hummus with pine nuts and sumac was elegantly rich. Expect glamour, but also solid kitchen fundamentals. It’s where the locals go when they want to show off a bit.

Ouzeri Lesvos – Benaki 38, Athens 10678 – @ouzeri_lesvos
An old-school ouzeri alive with tsipouro-fuelled laughter and music that spills into the street. Prawn saganaki, grilled octopus and friendly chaos. A living postcard where every table has its own story. Regulars say it’s one of the last places where the spirit of Plaka’s 70s mezedopoleio culture still thrives.

Seychelles – Kerameikou 49, Athens 10436 – @seychellesrestaurant
Tucked into a quiet square, Seychelles mixes comfort with clarity. Mussels with silverbeet, hilopites with slow-braised beef cheek, and a dessert that captured a Northern Greek legacy, halva with warm mastiha notes, typically found in homes from Kozani to Komotini. A neighbourhood bistro with the bones of a taverna and a soul all its own. They’re known for letting seasonal greens play the lead role

Ta Karamanlidika Tou Fani – Sokratous 1 & Evripidou 52, Athens 10552 – @ta_karamanlidika_tou_fani

Part Byzantine deli, part Constantinopolitan meze haven, Karamanlidika bridges the past and present with charm. Cured meats hang like icons, cheeses glisten behind glass, and the plates come with a story every time. Their pastourma and cheese rolls are near legendary, and the round-cut fries alone are worth a detour. The space itself feels like a hybrid between old merchant hall and modern meze bar, a fitting tribute to the roots of Anatolian-Greek flavours and hospitality. It’s a stop that leaves you fed, comforted, and slightly more curious about your own food history.

Drunky Goat – Kolokotroni 57, Athens 10560 – @drunkygoatathens
Drunky Goat serves as a welcoming first step into Athens’ growing wine scene. Stylish without intimidation, it offers a strong selection by the glass, with an easy-to-navigate menu that makes it a perfect entry point for those new to Greek wine. Mezedes are simple but satisfying, and the crowd is young, international, and open-hearted. A dependable stop to begin or end the night, or simply to linger without needing to rush.

Achilleas – Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia, Athens – No Instagram
A mageria that hasn’t changed with the decades and thank God for that. Gemista, lahanodolmades and orzo cooked just right. Home food in the heart of anarchist Athens. Still relevant because it never tried to be. A favourite among nearby artists and poets, they’ve never printed a menu and never needed to.

Pharaoh – Solomou 54, Athens 10682 – @pharaohathens
Chef Manolis Papoutsakis is quickly becoming one of the darlings of modern Greek cuisine. Originally acclaimed for his restaurants in Thessaloniki, especially for reimagining Cretan dishes with clarity and refinement, he brings that same spirit to Pharaoh. Rooster with pasta, beets with yoghurt, mushroom stew, all plated with intention and zero pretence. No signs, no slogans. Just locals who know and visitors who wish they’d come sooner. It’s a temple to restrained indulgence, and the soundtrack alone deserves a playlist.

Nolan – Voulis 31-33, Athens 10557 – @nolanrestaurant
A sleek hybrid of Greek-Japanese influences, Nolan has long been a darling of the new Athenian dining wave. With chef Sotiris Kontizas at the helm, dishes feel confident and globally fluent—sea bream sashimi with olive oil, steamed buns with local meats, and greens treated with the same respect as protein. It’s compact, always buzzing, and best approached with an open mind and a couple of hours to spare.

Ex Machina – Empedokleous 34, Athens 11636 – @exmachina.athens
Part bistro, part experimental lab, Ex Machina is quietly redefining what a neighbourhood kitchen can be. You’ll find wild greens with tahini, lentils cooked like risotto, and pork chops grilled with the confidence of a backyard dad but the touch of a sommelier. The wines lean low intervention, the lighting is low, and the vibe says stay a while.

Baba Au Rum – Klitiou 6, Athens 10560 – @baba_au_rum
One of Athens’ most internationally acclaimed bars, Baba Au Rum has earned its place in the World's 50 Best Bars list year after year, celebrated for its playful sophistication and devotion to rum. Even in winter, the crowd spills out into the street, turning this quiet laneway into a rhythmic hub of chatter, clinking glasses, and perfectly balanced cocktails. It’s moody, rum-heavy, citrus- laced, and effortlessly cool. The menu reads like a novella, with every drink having a story. A perfect late-night hideaway just a few metres off Ermou that feels part Havana, part Psyrri, and fully Greek in heart. has earned its place in the World's 50 Best Bars list year after year, celebrated for its playful sophistication and devotion to rum. It’s moody, rum-heavy, citrus-laced, and effortlessly cool. 

Barro Negro Athens – Ioannou Paparrigopoulou 15, Athens 10561 – @barronegroathens A love letter to agave in a city obsessed with tsipouro. This tequila and mezcal bar is dark, sexy, and undeniably modern. The bartenders walk you through the shelves like librarians of liquor, and the crowd is a mix of local creatives and global nomads. Their mole-inspired bar snacks are surprisingly good, especially the grilled corn with feta crema.

Birdman – Voulis 35, Athens 10557 – @birdmanathens

 In the heart of what locals call Athens’ informal Chinatown or Southeast Asian quarter, home to a growing number of Thai grocers, noodle houses, and sushi bars, Birdman sits as a leader of the precinct’s transformation into a culinary hotbed. Aris Vezene’s street-style Tokyo grill is as bold as it is refined. Think wagyu tartare with soy and yuzu, pork skewers grilled on binchotan, and a soundtrack that bounces from lo-fi hip hop to vintage house. This isn’t just a concept, it’s a tightly run theatre of fire, salt, and acid. Located on the edge of what locals refer to as Athens. Chinatown, Birdman is unapologetically niche, and all the better for it.

Ekiben – Valaoritou 37, Athens 10557 – @ekiben.athens

Just up the road from Birdman in the same bustling enclave, Ekiben feels like it belongs in Tokyo’s back alleys, tiny, focused, and full of energy. This is Athens’ slickest  bento bar, and it delivers. Pork katsu sandwiches are crisp and generous, soba noodle bowls are clean and umami-rich, and service is tight. It’s takeaway with discipline, and a rare local crowd that appreciates Japanese flavours done well. Just next door, the Record Lounge hums upstairs with crackling vinyl and candlelight. Expect Sade, soft disco, and cocktails leaning toward classics with subtle surprises.

Sushimou – Skoufou 6, Athens 10557 – 
Tucked in a narrow street behind Syntagma, Sushi Mou is Athens’ most exclusive sushi counter, with just a few seats and a menu that changes daily depending on what arrives from the port. It is helmed by Greek-Japanese chef Antonis Drakoularakos, a native son of both cultures who studied his craft in Tokyo and brought it home with reverence. There’s no social media, no signage, and no pretense—just the quiet precision of a chef serving omakase with soul.

Tanini Agapi Mou – Ippokratous 91 and Methonis, Athens – @tanini_agapi_mou

 A bar that wears its passion for tannins on its sleeve, “Tanini, My Love” brings structure and soul to every glass poured. Minimalist in decor, maximalist in mood, the wine list favours Greek varietals with grip and attitude. It's a place where conversations go long, and time seems to slow down to match the swirl of an orange wine in candlelight.

Gamay – Zoodochou Pigis 42, Athens – @gamay_winebar
Named after the playful French grape but proudly local in spirit, Gamay is a wine bar built for the curious and the thirsty. But the name carries an extra wink for Greek speakers too, as in slang is a word loaded with a bit more bite—it’s cheeky, bold, and irreverent, much like the bar itself. The vibe leans left of centre, with retro furniture, records spinning, and a clientele that ranges from sommeliers to skaters. Their snacks are clever and seasonal, and the wine list isn’t long but it’s deeply personal.

Taverna Ton Filon – Argous 66, Athens 10441 – @tavernatonfilon
Taverna Ton Filon is a quiet beacon of neighbourhood warmth. The langoustine tartare was one of the best bites of the trip, but it’s the genuine, familial hospitality that stays with you. Fish with white beans had both elegance and depth, and their custard pear dessert surprised everyone at the table, it was unpretentious and deeply satisfying. It’s the kind of place where you can lose track of time and still feel like you’ve come home.

Stou Lou – Konstantinoupoleos Avenue 104, Athens – @stou.lou
A humble taverna that feels like it could be in any Greek village, except this one is tucked beside a busy road in central Athens. The food is unfussy and rich with flavour—think stewed okra, lemony goat, and rough-cut potatoes.  The regulars are loyal, and the welcome is warm. This is Athens off
the grid.

Dodeka Piata – Odissea Androutsou 35 and Zan Moreas 26, Athens – @dodekapiata

12 Plates is more a state of mind than a rigid menu format. With a rotating selection of modern mezedes inspired by Greek roots and Mediterranean sensibilities, Dodeka Piata invites shared tasting and group banter. Highlights include chickpea fritters with ouzo crema, and slow-roasted lamb with herby yoghurt.

Leloudas 1928 – Salaminias 8-10, Athens – @leloudas1928
A working-class classic that has somehow remained untouched by time and trend. Leloudas serves hearty, deeply nostalgic food: soutzoukakia that taste like Sunday lunch, fasolada that hits with comfort, and thick-cut bread that demands dipping. Its tiled floors and no-frills charm remind you that greatness doesn’t always need reinvention.

Yperokeanio – Marias Chatzikiriakou 48, Piraeus – No Instagram
Hidden in the backstreets of Piraeus, this taverna honours the maritime soul of the port. Fried red mullet, raw sea urchin, and cold white wine make up a typical lunch. Fishermen eat here. So do chefs. It’s seafood without selfies, and if you’re lucky, the owner will pull up a chair and pour you a glass.

Wine is Fine – Vissis 6, Athens – @wineisfine.athens
This playful and intimate wine bar knows how to read the room. No printed list—just a chat with the staff, a peek at the fridge, and something good appears in your glass. From natural Greek pet-nats to rare mainland reds, it’s smart without being smug, and soulful without the fluff.

Epta Martyres – Menaichmou 3B, Athens – @eptamartyes.athens
With sweeping Acropolis views and a calm elegance, Epta Martyres feels like a city escape without ever leaving the city. Their fish is always fresh, their grilled greens seasoned just right, and their tomato salad tastes like it still has morning dew on it. Come just before sunset and let the city change colour around you.

Cinapos – Iraklidon 10, Athens 11852 – @cinapos
A gorgeous fit-out that balances sleek marble with warm wood, Cinapos blends nostalgia with refinement. Their pickled vegetable plate sets the tone, and from there, the kitchen pushes tradition with precision—horta with egg and ricotta, moussaka reimagined in clay, and desserts that walk the line between comfort and elevation. A number of diaspora tavernas, especially some new openings in Sydney, have clearly drawn inspiration from here. This is a dining room where both locals and out-of-towners lean in for something familiar but done just a little differently.

Hotel Grande Bretagne – Alexander’s Bar – Vasileos Georgiou 1, Athens –
@hotelgrandebretagne

 You’re here for elegance. Wood-panelled walls, deep leather seating, and a bar that has been whispered about for decades. The bartenders here move like ballet dancers, and whether you order a tsipouro or a Manhattan, it will arrive with ceremony. A nod to old Athens, still polished and glowing.

Walk In Bar – Mavromichali 56, Athens – @walkin.athens
Casual, stripped back, and quietly confident, Walk In is part bottle shop, part cocktail bar. The menu changes with the seasons, and the vibe with the day. From bitter-forward drinks to chilled retsina, it’s a place where locals meet before dinner or drift in after a show.

Meigma – Megalou Alexandrou 114, Athens – @meigma_athens
A fresh addition to the Athens food scene, Meigma lives up to its name. Inspired by Athenian street food and European bistronomy, the result is a menu that feels rooted and restless at once. Think beef cheeks with lentils, or wild greens turned into modern pies. A space full of intent and forward motion. The name means; mixture, and that’s exactly what this modern eatery offers.

Taverna Aoritis – Maiandrou 15, Athens – @taverna_aoritis
Rooted in Cretan flavours with a contemporary lens, Aoritis is slow food served fast. Dakos comes dressed in heirloom tomatoes, lamb is slow-roasted with orange zest and cinnamon, and the wine list champions lesser-known Cretan varietals. A tribute to Crete, in the rhythm of Athens.

Monk Grapes and Spirits – Lazaraki 26, Glyfada – @monk.gastrobar
Further south in Glyfada, Monk combines Mediterranean ingredients with a mixologist’s touch. You’ll find fermented beetroot with soft cheese, cocktails spiked with rosemary smoke, and a crowd that knows how to linger. Its a modern monastery of good taste, well worth the pilgrimage.

Oinoscent – Voulis 45-47, Athens 10557 – @oinoscent

Oinoscent is a pioneer in the modern Greek wine movement. Its list dives deep into the country’s lesser-known varietals, and the sommelier-led service makes even the most obscure bottle approachable. The space is elegant but not stiff, and their cheese plate is always on point. This is where the natural wine conversation in Athens really began.

Heteroclito – Fokionos 2, Athens – @heteroclitoathens
A laneway favourite that captures the romance of Athens in a wine glass. Tiny tables spill out onto the footpath and all the action is on the street, where the sound of clinking glasses and laughter makes it feel like a block party in slow motion. Upstairs, there are tucked away little lounges that feel like the good room at your family home, the one reserved for name days, aunties from abroad, and guests your parents actually respected. The wine list is extensive and passionate about it, with small-batch producers, obscure varietals, and staff who talk about wine like they’ve known the bottle since it was a baby. It’s a place to sip, talk, and watch the city pass by. No pressure, just presence.

Gallina – Markou Botsari 49, Athens 11742 – @gallina.athens
This Neos Kosmos favourite blends countryside comfort with bistro chic. The chicken is, as the name promises, a star—grilled, roasted, or fricassée. But it’s the sides that surprise: horta with pistachio vinaigrette, and tarama that’s been whipped into silk. The room is light-filled, the plating precise, but the vibe remains utterly Greek.

Linou Soumbasis Kai Sia – Melanthiou 2, Psirri, Athens 10554 – @lsandsia
This was, without question, the standout of the entire trip. Tucked into a quiet Psirri corner, Linou Soumbasis Kai Sia manages to be both rustic and refined, humble and exacting. The chef, whose work speaks louder than any press, delivers dishes with clarity and precision—standouts include the tarama with craft pita, langoustine, aged tuna carpaccio, and oysters that left us stunned. The space is full, the energy alive, and yet the service never falters. It was our final stop, and somehow, it said everything Athens is becoming.

Kalamakia O Elvis- Ermou 112, Monastiraki, Athens 10563 @elviskalamakia
Once a cult favourite tucked away in Kerameikos, Kalamakia O Elvis has relocated to the bustling Ermou Street, bringing its rock & roll charm to a broader audience. While some purists may miss the original spot & intimate vibe and Elvis memorabilia, the new location continues to serve up some of the city & most beloved souvlaki. Expect perfectly grilled skewers, crispy chips, and a nostalgic nod to the King himself, all in the heart of Athens.

Jazz In Jazz- Dinokratous 4, Kolonaki, Athens 10675 @jazzinjazz
Tucked away in the refined streets of Kolonaki, Jazz In Jazz is a portal to another era. With its dim lighting, vintage decor, and walls adorned with jazz memorabilia, stepping inside feels like entering a 1930s speakeasy. The bar boasts an extensive whiskey selection, catering to both connoisseurs and curious newcomers. The ambiance is intimate, often filled with the soft hum of jazz tunes and the clink of glasses. It's a haven for those seeking a sophisticated escape from the modern hustle.

Ta Akra- Amynta 12, Pangrati, Athens 11635 @akra_ath
In the heart of Pangrati, Ta Akra is a prime example of Athens’ new dining rhythm. Run by chefs Yannis Loukakis and Spyros Pediaditakis, it offers a stripped-back, ingredient-led experience where the kitchen and floor space dissolve into one shared energy. The menu changes daily depending on what’s at its freshest, and there is a quiet confidence in its zero-waste approach, every ingredient is used to its full potential. Think elegant yet unfussy plates like clams with lemon and bottarga, or artichoke broth with pickled mussels. The wine list leans towards the organic, the obscure, and the proudly local. A modern taverna in spirit, but with an intellect sharper than the knife on the pass.

Makris - Astiggos 10, Ermou 119, Athens 10555 @makrisrestaurants
Makris is Athens' new fine dining heavyweight, and as of 2024, a proud holder of a Michelin star. The philosophy here is deceptively simple organic produce, sustainable sourcing, and deep respect for Greek tradition, executed with quiet precision. At the helm is chef Petros Dimas, while behind the vision is Kosta Kapetanakis, the man who redefined brunch in Greece when he launched Estrella in Thessaloniki in 2013. With produce from their own farm, the menu reads like a celebration of land and memory, full of reworked classics and contemporary interpretations. This isn’t just a meal. It’s a confident statement that Greek fine dining has entered a new era and it’s doing it on its own terms. Rooftop terrace with Acropolis views and reservations are a must.

Taverna To Spanos- Aristomenous 12, Kato Patissia, Athens 10445
@tavernaspanos Taverna To Spanos is a masterclass in timeless simplicity. Hidden in plain sight in Kato Patissia, it’s the kind of place where the charcoal speaks louder than the chef. The païdakia (lamb chops) arrive crisp-edged and blistered from the grill, the kokoretsi is perfectly seasoned and fatty in all the right ways, and the snails come cooked in a garlicky, herb-laced oil that begs for bread. No pretence, no reinvention — just the kind of honest, expertly cooked food that reminds you why Greek tavernas don’t need trends. They just need someone who gives a damn.

Bougatsadiko Psirri – Plateia Iroon 1, Athens 10554 – @bougatsadiko_psirri

Even bursting at the seams, we made room for this. Creamy semolina bougatsa, flaked to perfection, served hot in the middle of Athens’ most chaotic square. The perfect end-of-night ritual. We shared a beer and a slice while watching the nightlife continue around us, and it might’ve been one of the simplest, most joyful bites of the trip.

A City Reimagined What we witnessed on this journey through Athens wasn’t just a food scene in motion, it was a city reclaiming its soul. Across laneways, rooftops, courtyards, and converted workshops, a new generation of chefs, bartenders, and hosts is quietly rebuilding Athens from within. They’re not erasing the past. They’re inhabiting it. Classical apartments once left to crumble have been given new breath with nothing more than
thoughtful lighting, clean lines, and reverence for the bones of a space. There’s no glossing over history, only a quiet confidence in its return. These venues feel like the living rooms, balconies, and back kitchens of another time, only now filled with playlists, pet-nats, and people who see nocontradiction in serving bougatsa after beetroot tartare.

This is the chic of Athens that sits behind the clichés and beyond the safe warmth of nostalgia. It’s subtle, intelligent, and distinctly Athenian. The kind of charm that doesn’t need to shout. A city that doesn't have to perform to be loved, because its finally loving itself again.